![]() There’s a multitude of software dedicated to this purpose. Then when you have your photos on the computer what remains is to actually combine the separate exposures into one. As always I recommend that you only shoot in RAW so you have the maximum amount of data to work with. How exactly to do this differs depending on which camera you have – see your instruction manual or google “HDR” and your camera’s model name and I’m sure you’ll find instructions. Exactly what to choose depends on the scene in question, but a good starting point is to do three photos with 2-3 stops of exposure in between them. ![]() This allows me to set how many photos I want to take (often you can choose from 2, 3, 5, 7 or 9 photos) and just how big a difference in exposure there should be between them. What I use is a function in the camera called “Auto Exposure Bracketing”, AEB. There’s often a built-in HDR mode, but I prefer to avoid this as it gives a JPEG image where you get much less control over the result yourself. Most modern cameras have a number of options to assist in taking HDR pictures. For the same reason it’s recommended to use a remote control or wire trigger for the camera. If the camera moves during or between the exposures the results will not be as good. But first a short paragraph on how to actually take the photos.įirst of all it’s highly recommended to use a stable tripod. There are different ways of doing this, and I’ll soon describe a couple. Then you combine these images – you take the brighter areas from the underexposed photos, and the darker areas from the overexposed photos. What you do is that you take multiple images where you change the exposure value between them, usually by choosing different exposure times. This is where the HDR technique comes in – it can be used to practically increase the camera’s dynamic range almost indefinitely. If you choose to expose for the shadow areas you can render them without noise, but the highlight areas will be hopelessly blown out and impossible to recover. ![]() If you increase the exposure in the image in postprocessing, the shadow areas will become noisy instead. If you expose for the highlights you avoid blowing them out, but in return the shadow areas will be way too dark. ![]() In this situation you need to choose whether to expose for the highlights or for the shadows. Since cameras have a limited dynamic range it means they have a hard time correctly capturing scenes where there’s a huge difference between the brightest and the darkest areas of the image, for example if you’ve got a bright light source and heavily shaded areas in the photo. A camera’s dynamic range decides how big a difference it can be between the darkest and the lightest point in a photo. HDR stands for “High Dynamic Range”, so it’s obviously a photo with a greater dynamic range than a normal photo. That look comes mainly for a process called “tone mapping”, and that can actually be avoided altogether if you like, even while enjoying the benefits of HDR photography. But despite this HDR is actually a very useful technique, even if you’re not looking for the typical HDR look. It may be just what you’re after, but more often than not it isn’t, I’d say. You often see HDR images that are overprocessed with high local contrast and low global contrast, which creates a surrealistic look to the photos. It’s a technique that (in my opinion undeservedly) has a pretty bad reputation. Sunrise over Helenevik in Mölndal, Sweden. Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in /home/customer/on line 738
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